Swaledale near Thwaite in the Yorkshire Dales, with stone field barns and drystone walls across green fields

Yorkshire Dales Villages: 11 of the Best, from a Local

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The Yorkshire Dales villages are the reason most people fall for this part of England: stone cottages around a village green, a good pub and a waterfall a short walk away. I live near Leyburn in Wensleydale, and these are the villages I keep going back to.

I’ll be honest about why: I go for the same reasons you will. They’re pretty, they’re easy to wander, and there’s always a tea room or a pub at the end. This guide covers the best villages in Wensleydale and Swaledale, the dales I know best, plus Grassington in Wharfedale, with what to do in each, how to get around and what visitors tend to get wrong.

Short on Time? The Dales Villages I’d Show a Friend

  1. Hawes for cheese, a proper market town and the best base in upper Wensleydale.
  2. Hardraw for a waterfall behind a pub, and my favourite pub in the Dales.
  3. Aysgarth for three sets of waterfalls on the River Ure.
  4. Castle Bolton for a medieval castle where Mary, Queen of Scots was held prisoner.
  5. Leyburn for a busy market place and big views from the Shawl.
  6. Reeth for the view I’d show anyone first, over the green and up Swaledale.

Yorkshire Dales Villages at a Glance

VillageDaleBest for
HawesWensleydaleWensleydale Creamery, Tuesday market, base for walks
HardrawWensleydaleHardraw Force waterfall and the Green Dragon Inn
AskriggWensleydaleThe original All Creatures Great and Small
BainbridgeWensleydaleVillage green and an old forest horn tradition
AysgarthWensleydaleAysgarth Falls
West BurtonWensleydaleA large green and a little waterfall
Castle BoltonWensleydaleBolton Castle
MiddlehamWensleydaleRichard III’s castle and racehorses
LeyburnWensleydaleFriday market, the Shawl walk
ReethSwaledaleThe green, the views, the Swaledale Museum
GrassingtonWharfedaleThe new All Creatures, Christmas markets

Opening times and bus routes last checked October 2026.

Wensleydale Villages

Wensleydale is my home dale. The River Ure runs through it, and the villages below are close enough together to see several in a day.

Sunlit fields in the valley below dark moorland, seen from Penhill
View from Penhill

Hawes

Hawes is a working market town in upper Wensleydale, with its market day on Tuesdays.

The big draw is the Wensleydale Creamery on the road to Gayle, home of the crumbly white cheese that Wallace and Gromit made famous. The visitor centre has a cheese experience with demonstrations, a cheese shop and places to eat. The Dales Countryside Museum, in the old station yard, is a good rainy-day stop about life and work in the Dales. Hawes is the base I’d pick for upper Wensleydale: see places to stay in Hawes.

Hardraw

Hardraw is a tiny village near Hawes with two things worth the trip. The first is Hardraw Force, a waterfall that drops about 30 metres (100 feet) in a single fall from a rock overhang, and is often called England’s highest unbroken waterfall above ground. It’s on private land behind the Green Dragon Inn, and you pay a small entry fee. Turner painted it, and Wordsworth visited too.

Hardraw Force waterfall dropping over a rocky overhang into a gorge near Hawes in Wensleydale
Hardraw Force. Photo by Annie Spratt on Unsplash

The second is the Green Dragon itself, my favourite pub in the Dales. Turner and Wordsworth both stayed there when they came to see the falls. Do the waterfall first, then settle in.

Askrigg

Askrigg was Darrowby in the original BBC series of All Creatures Great and Small (1978 to 1990). Cringley House played Skeldale House, the vets’ home, and the King’s Arms was the Drovers Arms. St Oswald’s Church dates from the 15th century, and a path of less than a mile leads from the village to Mill Gill Force, a waterfall in a wooded ravine. If you’re a fan of the newer Channel 5 series, that one is filmed in Grassington (see below).

Bainbridge

Bainbridge is built around its village green, where the old stocks still stand, and the remains of a Roman fort lie on Brough Hill just east of the village. The River Bain, which flows out of Semerwater lake, is reputed to be one of the shortest rivers in England. The Rose and Crown keeps the old Bainbridge forest horn, which was traditionally blown at 10pm each night from late September until Shrove Tuesday to guide travellers lost in the forest.

Aysgarth

Aysgarth is all about Aysgarth Falls: three sets of wide, stepped waterfalls (Upper, Middle and Lower Force) where the River Ure tumbles over limestone ledges. Easy paths through the woodland beside the river lead between them, and the National Park Centre has a café and car park. Turner painted the falls, Wordsworth visited, and they appeared in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. Go after heavy rain, when they’re at their most dramatic. For more falls, see my guide to the best Yorkshire Dales waterfalls.

The River Ure flowing over rocks between wooded banks at Aysgarth
River Ure at Aysgarth

West Burton

Close to Aysgarth, West Burton is one of the prettiest villages in Wensleydale, with old houses around a large village green. A couple of minutes’ walk away is Cauldron Falls, a small waterfall. It’s the kind of place you only need half an hour for, but it’s a lovely half hour.

Castle Bolton

The tiny village of Castle Bolton is dominated by Bolton Castle, a medieval fortress where Mary, Queen of Scots was held prisoner. There’s plenty to do: the castle rooms, gardens with a maze, a daily bird of prey display and a medieval tea room. It’s open 10am to 5pm daily in season, but closed for winter from 2 November 2026, so check its website for the reopening date before you plan a spring visit.

Ruined walls and towers of Bolton Castle behind green bushes
Bolton Castle

Middleham

Middleham is a small market town known for two things. Middleham Castle (English Heritage) was the northern power base of Richard III, and his son was born here. It’s a ruin, but the keep is impressive. And Middleham is a horse-racing town: it’s home to several racing yards, and racing is its biggest employer. If you’re visiting in winter, check English Heritage’s website for the castle’s opening days before you go.

Leyburn

Leyburn is my nearest town. Its market place has shops, pubs and cafés, and there’s a market every Friday. For the views, walk out to the Shawl, a limestone escarpment just west of town with panoramic views over Wensleydale (local legend says Mary, Queen of Scots dropped her shawl here while trying to escape from Bolton Castle). Leyburn also has a station on the Wensleydale Railway, a heritage line; check its website for running days. To stay: see places to stay in Leyburn.

Sun breaking through clouds over Wensleydale, seen from the Shawl in Leyburn
The Shawl, Leyburn

Swaledale: Reeth

Green fellsides of upper Swaledale near Keld in the Yorkshire Dales
Upper Swaledale near Keld. Photo by Ian Cylkowski on Unsplash

Reeth is the main village in upper Swaledale, where Swaledale meets Arkengarthdale. If a friend visits, it’s the view I show them first.

Reeth has three pubs (the Black Bull, the Buck and the King’s Arms), and the Burgoyne Hotel overlooks the village green. The small Swaledale Museum covers local life and lead mining, which was once run from Reeth; check its opening times before you go. Wainwright’s Coast to Coast walk passes through Reeth, so you’ll see plenty of walkers. To stay: see places to stay in Reeth.

Further Afield: Grassington

Grassington, in Wharfedale, is the southern Dales village most visitors have heard of, and I know it less well than my own dale, but it deserves a place here. It’s Darrowby in the Channel 5 series of All Creatures Great and Small, with the Devonshire pub standing in for the Drovers Arms. In 2026, its Christmas markets are on Saturday 28 November and Saturday 5 December. Bus 72 runs daily from Skipton.

No car? The Herriot and Yorkshire Dales day trip from York includes Grassington, and a full-day Yorkshire Dales tour from York is the easiest way to see several villages in a day.

How I’d See the Wensleydale Villages in a Day

If you have a car and one day, this is how I’d plan it, driving west up the dale:

  1. Morning: start in Leyburn (on a Friday, catch the market), then walk out to the Shawl for the view.
  2. Late morning: Bolton Castle at Castle Bolton (closed in winter).
  3. Lunch: Aysgarth Falls, with lunch at the visitor centre café, then a quick stop in West Burton.
  4. Afternoon: Askrigg and Bainbridge, then on to Hawes and the Wensleydale Creamery.
  5. Early evening: Hardraw Force, then dinner at the Green Dragon.

Add Reeth and Swaledale on a second day, or follow my 3 to 5 day Yorkshire Dales itinerary. Don’t have a car? Compare car hire on Booking.com.

Tips for Visiting the Dales Villages

  • Expect to pay for parking. Parking in the villages is usually paid, so budget for it.
  • Don’t count on phone signal. It’s terrible in much of the Dales. Download offline maps and check bus times before you set off.
  • Sundays are quiet. Many shops and cafés open short hours on Sundays, if at all. Plan Sunday around pubs, walks and the bigger attractions.
  • Check seasonal opening. Bolton Castle closes in winter, so check opening times for any attraction before you set off. Coming in winter? Read my guide to the Yorkshire Dales in winter.
  • Buses exist, but plan carefully. In Wensleydale, the 156 runs between Leyburn and Hawes from Monday to Saturday, the Little White Bus links Hawes with Garsdale railway station, and the 856 Wensleydale Flyer runs on Sundays between Northallerton, Bedale, Leyburn and Hawes. Reeth has the 30 from Richmond, Monday to Saturday. Check DalesBus before you travel.

Where to Stay in the Dales Villages

For upper Wensleydale and Hardraw, I’d stay in Hawes. For Middleham and Castle Bolton, Leyburn is the practical choice. For Swaledale, stay in Reeth. For more bases and places to stay, read my guide to where to stay in the Yorkshire Dales. Prefer a bigger town base? See my guide to where to stay in Harrogate.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the prettiest village in the Yorkshire Dales?

It’s personal, but for me it’s Reeth, for its green and the view up Swaledale. West Burton, Askrigg and Grassington are also strong contenders.

Which Yorkshire Dales village was used in All Creatures Great and Small?

Both. Askrigg in Wensleydale was Darrowby in the original BBC series (1978 to 1990), and Grassington in Wharfedale is Darrowby in the Channel 5 series that started in 2020.

Can you visit the Yorkshire Dales villages without a car?

Yes, but it takes planning. Hawes, Leyburn, Reeth and Grassington all have buses, though services are limited, especially on Sundays. A day tour from York is the easiest option if you don’t drive.

What is the best village to stay in in the Yorkshire Dales?

For Wensleydale, I’d pick Hawes or Leyburn. For Swaledale, Reeth.

How many days do you need for the Yorkshire Dales?

One day by car covers the main Wensleydale villages. Two or three days lets you add Swaledale and a proper walk at a slower pace.

Plan the Rest of Your Trip

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